Archive for Italy Tours

We get this question often at our retail store “European Focus Village” in the heart of Sarasota, Florida. The answer is, “Yes, all of the time!” In fact, more than half of the 10-15 trips we design and lead each season (March through October) are with repeat clients, couples, who have been completely spoiled by our easy-going style of travel. They may have been cruisers or bus tour fans in the past, but no more. Now they’re completely addicted to the European Focus method of authentic travel and adventure, the comfortable road, and not the “Europe Through the Back Door” experience of some of the hapless people we see being led around by a non-stop talking guide at a racetrack pace through Europe. Ever wonder where the “If it’s Tuesday this must be Belgium” saying comes from? Bus tours! We have turned the entire concept of escorted travel on its head, and we’ve been doing this successfully since 1995. Is this a cheap way to travel around Europe? Absolutely not. As with any custom-designed service or product, our trips are priced at a level which takes into account the personal service, the planning, the easy pace and the excellent accommodations and food that our clients love.

Taking Photographs is Part of the Trip

Thursday, November 15th, 2012

People on a big bus tour rarely get to stop and smell the flowers, much less take the time for a well-composed photograph. With European Focus Private Tours philosophy of “your pace is our pace,” our guests have all the time they want to capture the moment. Our recent guest Art shoots his ancestral village of Stilfs (Stelvio am Stilfersjoch) during a visit to this gorgeous area of Southern Tyrol in early October.

The Cinque Terre is Alive and Well After Flooding of 2011

Friday, May 18th, 2012

The Via Dell Amore from Riomaggiore to Manarola

May 18

News hit the world like a flash. The beautiful Cinque Terre of Italy’s Ligurian coast was destroyed by terrible mudslides in October, 2011. Torrential downpours had reduced the villages to colorful versions of Pompeii. Well, not entirely true, as we found out on a recent visit to this sparkling part of Italy.

Interesting geology on display along the pathway

Two villages were damaged. Monterosso al Mara at the north end of the five village chain and its neighbor Vernazza had plenty of deep mud and thousands of tons of rocks to clean up after the October 25 deluge. Nine people were confirmed to have died. But destroyed? Gone for good? This was all media hype and hysteria and as we saw with our own eyes on May 14, the villages are thriving and at full operational ability.

There is one exception. The stunning path which takes the hiker from village to village has been cut off at various points. One can still enjoy the easy path from Riomaggiore to Manarola, which takes about 25 minutes (much more actually because you stop so many times to take photos) but then the path ends in a locked gate with warning signs. You cannot continue to tiny Corniglia, which is stranded with no hike in to the village from east or from west. There is a much higher route to take, but it’s difficult to get to and it seems, most people were just satisfying themselves with a short stroll and then a boat ride to either Vernazza or to Monterosso al Mare from the little “port” at Manarola.

The Cinque Terre is a national treasure. Work is ongoing to ensure that torrential rain does not damage these jewels again.

Our guests George and Susan Then admire the view of Manarola from the Via Dell Amore

Landslide evidence between Corniglia and Vernazza

It's tradition to "lock" yourself together symbolically along the Via Dell Amore. The key is thrown into the sea.

A Day in Montepulciano, Tuscany

Saturday, May 12th, 2012

May 12

We’re on a slow ramble around Tuscany with two nights in Montepulciano, one of the prettiest of the Tuscan hill towns. Also one of the steepest, we’ve determined, after visiting others such as Siena, Montecchiello and Pienza.

Montepulciano is famous for its palaces around the main square, its unfinished church (they ran our of money in the 1500s and never put the marble facade on it) and the ruby red Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Scenes below were taken on May 11 and 12 during our explorations of this fascinating town.

The skyline of Montepulciano, settled in the 6th century, seen from my room at the country inn where we are staying

The Municipio or town hall with the Saturday morning flea market in progress

An old man says hello to a fat cat along the main street

A not so secret passage into the town

Our guest George Then tasting Brunello di Montalcino

A Jack o'the Bell still working after several centuries.He strikes the bell with a mallet held in his right hand.

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Categories : Italy Tours

Abbey San Salvatore in Tuscany, Italy

Saturday, May 12th, 2012

May 12

Exploring the Abbey of San Salvatore

On our way from Orvieto to Montepulciano we took a diversion and drove high up into the mountains to the ancient Abbey San Salvatore in the town of the same name high in the mountains of the Val di Orcia, Tuscany.

Stone columns holding up the ceiling of the crypt


Work which has held for 1,200 years

The abbey is small and not particularly impressive from the exterior unless you keep in mind that it is dating from the eighth century. Once you enter the interior, your first impression is of incense. A mass for two people has just finished. To the right and the left are stairs descending down into the oldest part of the church, the crypt, with rows of columns, all different at the top. You remind yourself that the stones forming the arches of this crypt have done their job for more than 1,200 years.

The 12th century crucifix

Above, a wooden crucifix looks as it it were carved yesterday. It wasn’t. It was carved in the 12th century.

In Italy, it is easy to become complacent about age. Fifteenth century this, twelfth century that. Something from the 19th or 20th century hardly registers. But eighth century. That’s memorable.

George Then looks at the expansive view over the Tuscan countryside from the Abbey San Salvatore

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Jewish History in Pittigliano, Tuscany

Friday, May 11th, 2012

Pittigliano, Tuscany seen from the west

May 10

There was once a flourishing Jewish community in this fortified Tuscan village. Kicked out of the Papal States (those areas immediately surrounding Rome) by Popes in the 16th century, a large settlement developed in Pittigliano where they were given protection by the local ruling family. In ‘Little Jerusalem’ there can be seen many traces of their existence, including a ritual bath, a kosher butchery, bakery, dye house where textiles were prepared and perhaps most importantly, the rebuilt synagogue.

Entrance to the restored synagogue

Built at the end of the 1500s, the synagogue once stood on an outcrop of the tufa stone hanging over the southwest wall of the town. The Jewish population of Italy had been granted legal emancipation after Italy was united in 1871. By the 1930s, many had left this little town for better opportunities in the cities. With facism, their rights were suppressed and many who could left for other countries. A few were deported. After the war, there were only a handful left. The synagogue, abandoned after the tumult of World War II, had been destroyed by landslides in the 1960s. It stood as a ruin for many years. Finally, in 1995, it was rebuilt by the town government using recollections from surviving members of the community, drawings and photographs.

A small entry fee allows one to wander through the subterranean chambers where animals were butchered by having their throats slit with a knife. Blood ran down a steep decline and through a hole in the wall to the valley below. Textiles were soaked in tubs cut out of the rock. Wine was produced in a kosher cellar. Bread was baked in an oven which looks as it it is ready to use today.

The baking oven

Pittigliano, ‘Little Jerusalem,’ a new discovery for European Focus but one which we shall return to again and again.

Nearly deserted Via Roma in the afternoon of a fine spring day

Enjoying Italy by Visiting Orvieto, Umbria

Wednesday, May 9th, 2012

May 9

A woman watches from above as we ramble around ancient Orvieto

Just off the plane at Leonardo da Vinci International Airport, George and Susan Then from Florida were welcomed by guide James Derheim for their second trip with European Focus. Last year, it was Germany and George’s ancestral towns of Amberg and Nurnberg. This time, it’s Susan’s turn with visits to Orvieto, Tuscany, the Ligurian Coastline, Austrian Alps and finally, an favorite from last time, Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Bavaria before the return trip.

A fresh taste of tomatoes, garlic and olive oil at Trattoria Da Carlo

We took the back roads from Rome driving through the pretty countryside of Lazio before arriving at our country inn, the impeccable Locanda Rosati just outside of Orvieto. We’ve been staying here with guests since 2003 and everyone loves it. After a brief freshen up, we drove into Orvieto for lunch at the Trattoria Da Carlo, our new favorite place for lunch, tucked away in a quiet little square off the main street. This insider’s locale is run by the charming, young Carlo and his mother. Sometimes, there are fireworks between mother and son but that’s just part of the fun. For lunch, bruschetta and tagliatelle with fresh asparagus.

The Cantina Foresi is still there after all of these years. So is the wine!

Afterward, a ramble around Orvieto. George remembered visiting a wine cellar 20 years ago while here on a business trip with his wife, Susan. We found that wine cellar and in the deepest regions of the cellar, which is cut into the tufa rock which Orvieto is perched upon, hundreds of bottles of wine with thick layers of cobwebs and mold. These bottles have been here for fifty, sixty years, we were told. Any good? Probably not. Orvieto wine is made to drink now.

We plan to do that, tonight, at the Locanda Rosati.

A cat takes a nap in a potted tree along the main street in Orvieto

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Castle for Sale in Tuscany

Wednesday, April 18th, 2012

Castle dell'Aquila, Tuscany has been largely restored to its former grandeur.


April 18

While on my way to Rome recently to pick up clients, I stopped in northern Tuscany to visit good friends Giulio and Elisabetta Salemme. We stayed the night in a simple but lovely Agriturismo within sight of a massive gray pile of rock which I learned was the Castello dell’Aquila. Giulio offered a visit to the castle the following morning and who can resist the chance to see the inside of a mighty fortress?

View over nearby Gargano, Tuscany from the castle tower


The next day was bright and beautiful without a cloud in the sky. Typical Tuscany. We climbed the hill to the castle in Giulio’s pickup truck. The castle loomed over us, strong walls and high tower etched against the sky. The owner, Gabriela Maria Girardin, came out to meet us. We spent the next two hours roaming the many rooms, chambers, hallways, stairwells and rooms of the castle. It was an incredible experience, especially trying to determine what was rebuilt versus what had been a total ruin before her efforts began.

The kitchen of the private apartment is huge but still manages to be cozy


Gabriela has been a collector of fine art for decades. She has sold off much of her collection to pay for the enormous costs of restoring the castle, which basically was looted and pillaged for building materials by the peasants who lived below in the nearby villages after it fell out of use more than 100 years ago. Hey, why go and carve up a piece of stone when there is a huge amount of it up on top of that hill?
That was the fate of many castles all over Europe, when their owners died out or were displaced by whatever petty war they got themselves tangled up in, the locals took their revenge by using their castles as quarries.

A shooting hole for defense of the castle

The Castello dell’Aquila has nine large bedrooms with full bathroom facilities. There are massive banquet halls with high ceilings. A chapel for weddings. A large courtyard where in summer, dinner parties by candlelight are held. There is, of course, a big cellar and a gigantic attic. Even a skeleton (a reproduction) in a niche in the courtyard. The legend is that the soldier was killed by the arrow from a crossbow. My friend Giulio found such an arrowhead more than 25 years ago when he was exploring the ruins of the castle. That was the reason for our visit. Giulio was going to try and get a local museum to return the arrowhead to the castle, and to the current owner, for her own small on-site museum.

The castle's current owner and her dog


After all of this work and the success of building up the castle as a destination for events, meetings, parties and just romantic getaways, the entire complex is for sale for an undisclosed (at least to us) amount. For details the interested person may contact the owner through European Focus. Just a little tip – it will probably take several chests full of cash to dislodge Gabriela from her lofty perch.

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Categories : Italy Tours