Archive for provence

PARIS, PROVENCE & CÔTE D’AZUR
Micro Group Tour for June or July (Max 5 adults)

This trip starts off with two nights in one of the world’s most enchanting cities, with a guide who knows how to make the most of your time. We then move away from the cities to explore several distinct regions of Provence – from fragrant and visually stimulating markets in some of the most scenic villages in France to taking in the wonderful cuisine of the regions. Finally, we move on to the Côte d’Azur, staying right on the sparkling Mediterranean in a quaint but bustling old fishing village.

If there’s interest within the group there is much more to experience, including:
• Plenty of exposure to remnants of the Roman world in their Gaulish territories
• Experiencing unmatched and diverse natural beauty and landscapes (picque-nique anyone?)
• History from pre-Roman, Roman, Middle Ages to present
• This tour is relatively slow-paced

12 days starting from (depending upon number of people, price below is for a full group of five. Price is higher per person if we do not reach the full number)

EURO 4,599

Please consult www.x-rates.com for current rate in dollars.

Package Offer Includes:

• Breakfast, lunch and guidance on where to go for dinner. Dinner included on three nights during your trip.
• All lodging
• Transportation costs, fuel and tolls
• Tips
• Admission fees

Does not include airfare to and from France.

European Focus Private Tours
Private European Travel Specialists since 1996

Guide Jenean Derheim in Provence, 2011

PARIS, PROVENCE & CÔTE D’AZUR
Micro Group Tour for July or August or October, 2013 (Max 5 adults)

This trip starts off with two nights in one of the world’s most enchanting cities, with a guide who knows how to make the most of your time here. We then move away from the cities and to explore several distinct regions of Provence – from fragrant and visually stimulating markets in some of the most scenic villages in France to taking in the wonderful cuisine of the regions. Finally, we move on to the Côte d’Azur, staying right on the sparkling Mediterranean in a quaint but bustling old fishing village.

If there’s interest within the group there is much more to experience, including:
• Plenty of exposure to remnants of the Roman world in their Gaulish territories
• Experiencing unmatched and diverse natural beauty and landscapes (picque-nique anyone?)
• Relatively slow-paced
• History from pre-Roman, Roman, Middle Ages to present

12 days starting from (depending upon number of people)
EURO 4,959

Package Offer includes:
• All meals and drinks (up to two glasses of wine or two beers per person at dinner)
• All lodging
• Transportation costs, fuel and tolls
• Tips
• Admission fees (except for special requests such as parasailing on a beach or bullfights for instance)

Paris, Provence and Cote d’Azur Micro-Group Itinerary Offer

Wednesday, February 22nd, 2012

This tour will be led by Jenean Derheim

Gordes, Luberon will be one of our multiple night stays during this relaxed journey in southern France.

PARIS, PROVENCE & CÔTE D’AZUR
Micro Group Tour for June, 2013 (Max 5 adults)

This trip starts off with two nights in one of the world’s most enchanting cities, with a guide who knows how to make the most of your time here. We then move away from the cities and to explore several distinct regions of Provence – from fragrant and visually stimulating markets in some of the most scenic villages in France to taking in the wonderful cuisine of the regions. Finally, we move on to the Côte d’Azur, staying right on the sparkling Mediterranean in a quaint but bustling old fishing village.

If there’s interest within the group there is much more to experience, including:
• Plenty of exposure to remnants of the Roman world in their Gaulish territories
• Experiencing unmatched and diverse natural beauty and landscapes (picque-nique anyone?)
• Relatively slow-paced
• History from pre-Roman, Roman, Middle Ages to present

12 days starting from (depending upon number of people and ratio of singles versus doubles – no shared rooms among strangers)
EURO 4,599

Package Offer includes:

• All meals and drinks (up to two glasses of wine per person
@ dinner)
• All lodging
• Transportation costs, fuel and tolls
• Tips
• Admission fees (except for special requests such as parasailing on a beach or bullfights for instance)

European Focus Private Tours

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Glanum, memory of the past near St. Remy-de-Provence, France

Thursday, June 9th, 2011

Mausoleum and entrance gate at Glanum


We visited this monument the other day. It is an incredible experience that need at least two hours to enjoy fully.

Glanum was an oppidum, or fortified town, founded by a Celto-Ligurian people called the Salyens in the 6th century B.C.

View over the Glanum site, excavated starting in 1921


It was known for the healing power of its spring. It became a Roman city in Provence until its abandonment in 260 A.D.. It is located on the flanks of the Alpilles, a range of mountains in the Bouches-du-Rhône département, about 20 km (12 miles) south of the modern city of Avignon, and a kilometer south of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. It is particularly known for two well-preserved Roman monuments of the 1st century B.C., known as les Antiques, a mausoleum and a triumphal arch. the oldest one in France, located at the site.

Water to fill the baths once jetted from the mouth of this amazing face, perfectly preserved.


Jenean Derheim gazes in wonder at the old bath complex

Between the 4h and 2nd centuries B.C., the Salyens, the largest of the Celto-Ligurian tribes in Provence, built a rampart of stones on the peaks that surrounded the valley of Notre_Dame-de-Laval, and constructed an oppidum, or town, around the spring in the valley, which was known for it’s healing powers. A shrine was built at the spring to Glanis, a Celtic god. The town grew, and a second wall was built in the 2nd century.

The town had a strong Celtic identity, shown by the names of the residents (Vrittakos, Eporix, Litumaros) by the names of the local gods (Glanis and his companions, the Glanicae, (similar to the Roman Matres); and the goddesses Rosmerta and Epona); by the statues and pottery; by the customs, such as displaying the severed heads of enemies at the city gate; and by the cooking utensils found in the ruins, which showed that the people of Glanis boiled their food in pots, rather than frying it in pans like other Mediterranean tribes.

Memorials along the main street

The people of Glanum were in early contact with the Greek colony of Marseille, which had been founded in about 600 B.C. The contact influenced the architecture and art of Glanum- villas were built in the Hellenic style. But by the 2nd century there conflicts and wars between the Salyens and the Greeks of Marseille. The Greeks of Marseille, not having a powerful army, called upon the assistance of their Roman allies. In 125 B.C. the Salyens were defeated by the army of the Roman consul Marcus Fulvius Flaccus, and the following year decisively defeated by C. Sextus Calvinus. Many of the old monuments of Glanum were destroyed,

The Sacred Spriongs and neighboring temples as they appeared in Roman times

Despite the defeat, the town prospered again, thanks to the attraction of the healing spring. The city produced its own silver coins and built new monuments. The prosperity lasted until 90 B.C. when the Salyens again rebelled against Rome. The rebellion was crushed again, this time by the Consul Caecilius, and the public buildings of Glanum were again destroyed. dismantled, and replaced by more modest structures.

The ruins of the Sacred Springs

In 49 B.C. Julius Caesar captured Marseille, and after a period of destructive civil wars, the Romanization of Provence and Glanum began.
In 27 B.C. the Emperor Augustus created the Roman province of Gallia Narbonensis, and in this province Glanum was given the title of Oppidum Latinum, which gave residents the civil and political status of citizens of Rome. A triumphal arch was built outside the town between 10 and 25 B.C., near the end of the reign of Augustus, the first such arch to be built in Gaul, as well as an impressive mausoleum of the Julii family, both still standing.

In the 1st century B.C., under the Romans, the city built a new forum, temples, and a curved stone arch dam, Glanum Dam, the oldest known dam of its kind and an aqueduct, which supplied water for the fountains and Roman baths in the town.

Glanum was not as prosperous as the Roman colonies of Arles, Avignon and Cavaillon, nor was it fortunate enough to be on the major Roman road of the colony, the Via Domitian, but in the 2nd century A.D. it was wealthy enough to build impressive shrines to the Emperors, to enlarge the forum, and to have extensive baths and other public buildings clad in marble.

The Votive Altar was from the Greek period. The Goddesses ears are plainly seen on the pillar, letting the person know that their prayers were heard.

Glanum did not survive the collapse of the Roman Empire. The town was overrun and destroyed by the Alamanni in 260 A.D., and was subsequently abandoned, its inhabitants moving a short distance north into the plain to found a city that later was named Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

After its abandonment Glanum became a source of stone and other building materials for Saint-Remy. Since the Roman system of drains and sewers was not maintained, the ruins were often flooded and covered with mud and sediment. The mausoleum and triumphal arch , together known as “Les Antiques,” were famous, and were visited by King Charles IX, who had the surroundings cleaned up and maintained. Some excavations were made around the monuments as early as the 16th and 17th centuries, finding sculptures and coins, and by the marquis de Lagoy in the Vallons-de-Notre-Dame in the 19th century.

The first systematic excavations began in 1921, directed by the architect of historic monuments, Jules Foremigé. From 1921 until 1941, the archeologist Pierre LeBrun worked on the site, discovering the baths, the basilica, and the residences of the northern town. From 1928 to 1933, Henri Roland (1887–1970) worked on the Iron Age sanctuary, to the south. From 1942 until 1969, Rolland took over the work and excavated the area from the forum to the sanctuary. The objects he discovered are on display today at the hotel de Sade in the Saint-Remy-de-Provence.

New excavation and exploration work began in 1982, devoted mainly to preservation of the site, and to exploring beneath sites already discovered for older works.

The amazing Mausoleum

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Today in Isle sur la Sorge, France

Sunday, May 15th, 2011

The center of Isle sur la Sorge


We visited the market in this small town today, a colorful event, crowded even in this early part of the tourist season. Finding a place to park is an exercise in extreme patience and perseverance. This town, and other market towns, would be smart to initiate a park and ride service. Oh well. You can’t have everything.

Tablecloths imported from Africa are destroying the French textile industry

The market offers everything you can imagine, from handicrafts to things made in (eeek) China and Africa. Those “French” tablecloths for eight Euros each? Make in Africa. Yes. Africa. Thank you for the cheap tourists who insist on price over quality, it’s effectively killing off the French textile industry. While enjoying the market, we also were buffeted by the extreme winds of the mistral, roaring through the countryside after a short but violent storm last night. Dark clouds raced in over the Luberon, and today was exceptionally windy even though clear with just a few light clouds floating above. To experience the mistral is to experience nature at its most extreme.

Music for the passersby

The constant strong wind brings allergies to the forefront, shortens the temper and generally makes a mess of things. Oh well. It’s still Provence and it’s still beautiful beyond description.

Poppies outside of Isle sur la Sorge

Hospices de Beaune, France

Friday, May 13th, 2011

Hotel Dieux, Beaune, Burgundy


The “Palace of the Poor” was built in the 1400s by wealthy citizens in order to take care of people who had no other place to go. It was state of the art for its time, run by nuns, and exceptionally comfortable and relatively private. We visited the museum in the center of Beaune, Burgundy on our way from Germany into the French Alps.

The Hôtel-Dieu was founded on 4 August 1443, when Burgundy was ruled by Duke Philip the Good. The Hundred Years War had recently been brought to a close by the signing of the Treaty of Arras in 1435. Massacres, however, continued with marauding bands (“écorcheurs”) still roaming the countryside, pillaging and destroying, provoking misery and famine. The majority of the people of Beaune were declared destitute.

Nicolas Rolin, the Duke’s Chancellor, and his wife Guigone de Salins, reacted by deciding to create a hospital and refuge for the poor.

The Hospices de Beaune received the first patient on 1 January 1452. Elderly, disabled and sick people, with orphans, women about to give birth and the destitute have all been uninterruptedly welcomed for treatment and refuge, from the Middle Ages until today.

Over the centuries, the hospital radiated outwards, grouping with similar establishments in the surrounding villages of Pommard, Nolay, Meursault. Many donations – farms, property, woods, works of art and of course vineyards – were made to it, by grateful families and generous benefactors. The institution is one of the best and oldest example of historical, philanthropic, and wine-producing heritage, and has become linked with the economic and cultural life of Burgundy.

The chapel was integreted into the hospital chamber. Patients could particpate in the mass from their beds.

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Categories : France Tours

Travels around Provence and the Luberon

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

Jenean and I admit that scouting for future tours is our most favorite part of our jobs. Driving around, visiting villages and towns, locating hotels and restaurants and other unique places to take our future clients is an absolute joy and never feels like work. Of course, we are working, but it’s deliciously fun. We started this most recent road trip by leaving a dreary and rainy Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Germany, our home base) behind on July 27. We had just completed some scouting in the northern and central parts of Germany but the weather was just terrible for most of that, so we were anxious to get to the sun. A quick check of the forecast showed nothing but clear skies and sunshine and temps in the high 80s and low 90s for the next week. Before venturing into France, we stopped for a night in the hamlet of Gleiszellen, near the border with Alsace. This is a favorite stopover of ours due to the fabulous food served at the inn, “Zum Lam,” run by the Ball family.


Jenean has a beer at Zum Lam

After our night of wine, flammkuchen and rest, we continued on to the south through Lorraine and bypassing Metz on the small roads, on to Dijon, where I’d booked a night at what I thought was a nice hotel a few minutes away from the center of town. The three star Hotel Jura turned out to be just a couple notches above a dump, with our “Superior” room being on the top floor and of course, the next morning the elevator was broken. I’d hate to see what one of their “Standard” rooms looks like. Anyway, at least it was quiet as our room faced the backs of neighboring buildings and not the busy street at the front.

The next day, we left early and drove the back roads in the direction of Beaune, through gorgeous vineyards and with a sprinkling of villages off to our right, against the hills. It was a bright and warm day and we were in much brighter spirits, heading for the sun of Provence. First, we checked out a couple of hotels for future stays in this region. One of them, a two star, surprised us with its big rooms, pool and lovely surroundings in a picture-book hamlet surrounded by vines. It beat the daylights out of the three star we’d just endured in Dijon. See – professional travelers make mistakes, too.

Arriving at our B&B on the edge of Gordes around 5:45 we were looking forward to checking in for our three-night stay. The innkeeper seemed surprised to see us. Guess she had a reason – we had no reservation! It turns out that Jim’s acceptance of their offer of July 22 was never received. Here we were, a full week later, and our room had just been rented two days before. There was not a room in the inn for us. Jenean was devastated, Jim was too tired to move. The owner got on the phone and found us a room in a nice B&B on the other side of town. The price was a little higher, but at least we had a room during this extremely busy time for tourism in Provence.

An old bridge near Bonneiux

A reader writes:
That is not just an old bridge, it is Pont Julien, an ancient Roman structure that is remarkably intact after 2,000 years of use. Fortunately it’s now closed to traffic.

Nearby is a charming if modest restaurant of the same name, Le Pont Julien, where you can take your clients for a pleasant fixed-price lunch complete with local rose wine and personal service from Madame. In the courtyard, weather permitting.

Well, the inn found for us turned out to be magnificent. Jim loved the sweeping view from the terrace looking out over vast tracts of the Luberon as far as Roussillon and beyond. The room was large and beautifully appointed. We had plenty of fresh air due to the double balcony doors and the amazing force of the “mistral,” a strong north wind which comes through this part of France from time to time. At night, the lack of light pollution meant we had a spectacular view of the stars and the half moon rising yellow over the mountains to the east. If this was a mistake, then it was a mistake in our favor. We loved this place so much that we plan to take two special guests there in 2011 for a four or five night stay while we explore the region.

View from our room over the Luberon

(We usually don’t divulge the names of our finds, as they are our finds, and we like to keep them special and private for our clients)

Fro the next couple of days we explored various regions of the Luberon. More about this in a later post.

Gordes is one of the most attractive towns of the Luberon

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Shopping in Les Baux de Provence

Friday, July 24th, 2009
Storefront in Les Baux de Provence
Storefront in Les Baux de Provence

 

Not only is there plenty of history, nature and yummy food in Provence but also shopping in hundreds of shops just like this one in Les Baux.

After walking uphill to the entrance of the village of Les Baux, you find yourself within a medieval village of narrow cobblestone streets full of terrace cafes and shops. For a real step back in time one can continue climbing up to the top of the village and visit the site of the old castle fortifications, with beginnings from the 10th Century.

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Categories : France Tours