Author Archive for jim

The crucifix as we know it was developed in Spain in the 14th century to punish the Jews for their mistreatment of Christ

The crucifix as we know it was developed in Spain in the 14th century to punish the Jews for their mistreatment of Christ

May 18

The Evangelical Lutheran Michaelskirche

The Evangelical Lutheran Michaelskirche

 

Out of the 27 different villages we have visited in the past eight days, one stands out as being particularly interesting. The tour we enjoyed the other day of the very old church of St. Michael in the village of Heiningen, located in a shallow valley in the rolling hills of the Schwaebische Alb northeast of Stuttgart.

We were met at the parish house by pastor Hauff and retired pastor Wagner, who had come from Stuttgart to work on a special project with the current pastor. As the current pastor admitted, he has only been in the parish about 18 months, and did not feel he knew enough about the history to conduct a tour. And so, the four of us went into the church, former pastor, two visitors from America and the current pastor. At least three out of the four of us were about to learn a great deal about symbology and religion in the 14th century.

The term “Biblio Publico” refers to paintings, statues and other objects to show those who could not read the stories of the Bible. The masterpieces of art that covered the walls of the church were like splashing huge pages of a comic book up on the walls for the 3rd grade education level of the people. Huge on one wall, St. Christopher. He’s bigger than life, and dominates the wall near an entrance. Why? Because obviously people in the 14th and 15th centuries had difficulties with child mortality and the death of the mother in childbirth. Over on another wall, a depiction of Christ on the cross, hands outreached with no sign of the nails and instead of a crown of thorns, a rainbow above his head. This is how Jesus was portrayed before the Spanish started showing him as the tortured Christ on the cross, bloodied and torn. Why the change? Politics. The Spanish wanted to remind the people of the evil deeds of the Jews. Flogging the Jews daily over their treatment of the Savior was one ideal way to get out of paying debts. The Jews held the title on people’s lives, their homes, their businesses. Remind the people of what evil people the Jews were, and it was easier to chase the banker out of your city, rather than repay the debt.

The architect created a statue of himself in the choir

The architect created a statue of himself in the choir

We learned about the placement of various saints in the church. St. Michael Archangel is the patron saint of this and many other churches. Every time one sees a church named for this saint, one can assume that a pagan place of worship used to stand in that spot. St. Michael with his spear stabbing the heart of the dragon is the destroyer of pagan religions. Another saint is shown holding up the diamond-shaped choir, a “later” addition from the 15th century to this very old church. The people in this region had problems with rheumatoid arthritis  and their had hogs that came down with sickness. There’s a saint for that, too, and they are depicted in the ceiling of the church plus a wonderful bust of the architect in the choir. He used to hold plans in his hands, those have been lost due to one war or conflict among many.

A cemetery used to be located around the church. That cemetery was moved due to hygienic reasons to a location outside of town. But a stone reminder remains in the form of a small chameleon, easy to miss entirely if it were not pointed out to you. The chameleon, Pastor Wagner explained, represents the rebirth which would follow death. The room beyond the doorway where you find the chameleon used to hold the bodies of the deceased before they were moved out the side door to be buried.

A stone chameleon above the entrance to the storage room for bodies before they were taken to be buried

A stone chameleon above the entrance to the storage room for bodies before they were taken to be buried

Finally, we learned that there are more than 1,000 ways to tell a story by the way a person is holding their hands in a painting. We saw one such painting, done around 1400, and the women are all holding their hands in slightly different ways. All of these tiny details in an ancient church, easily missed but for the excellent “Biblio Publico” in the mind of this kind, retired pastor who took his time to show us signs from the past.

The 13th century font shows a three-sided triangle for the Holy Trinity and a four-sided triangle to represent the Four Elements of Fire, Air, Water and Earth

The 13th century font shows a three-sided triangle for the Holy Trinity and a four-sided triangle to represent the Four Elements of Fire, Air, Water and Earth

A New Englander’s View Of German Food

Saturday, May 18th, 2013

May 18

By Margaret Weiler

Currently on tour with European Focus founder James Derheim in the Schwaebische Alb region of Germany

White asparagus in season usually from early April to June 23 is a delicacy enjoyed by many who come to Germany from abroad and who are only familiar with the green variety

White asparagus in season usually from early April to June 23 is a delicacy enjoyed by many who come to Germany from abroad and who are only familiar with the green variety

One of the pleasures of revisiting Germany is reconnecting with German food.  In the United States good German food is hard to find, at least where we live in New England, and it is usually a poor imitation of the real thing.  It’s a special pleasure to be in southern Germany in the spring.

Driving around in the countryside you see field after field of crops growing, sometimes the bright yellow rape, sometimes green and hard to identify this early, and sometimes spargel which is asparagus grown under long rows of white plastic covering so that the result is white and soft.  It needs to be peeled which is a lot of work.  When cooked properly it is delightfully tender and a bit sweet.  In Ulm I had a meal consisting almost entirely of spargel.

During this trip we have gone to several restaurants where I have had wonderful spaetzle, an egg noodle which is wonderful when cooked properly and served with a delicious sauce.  At home I have tried making it myself or buying dried, with poor results.  At a restaurant in an old mill I had the best brats ever, incredibly tender and tasty with a light sauce.  One noontime we just went into a metzgerei (butcher shop) where they had a little table where I sat and ate a delicious leberkase (sort of a ham loaf) and potato salad.

Tender brats with a light sauce and salad at the Herrenmuehle near Adelberg

Tender brats with a light sauce and salad at the Herrenmuehle near Adelberg

The salads here in the Kirchheim unter Teck area are interesting.  At first you only see a pile of lettuce of various  varieties with an oil and vinegar dressing.  Underneath are little collections of interesting things like shaved carrots or cabbage, tomatoes, or potato salad.

The author at left with Jenean Derheim, European Focus, at the Herrenmuehle

The author at left with Jenean Derheim, European Focus, at the Herrenmuehle

Lorch Monastery, Germany

Friday, May 17th, 2013

May 17

Entrance to the ancient cemetery, storm clouds building to the west.

EntranceToCemetery copy

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Categories : Europe Tours

The Origin of the Crucifix

Friday, May 17th, 2013

May 17

In the 12th-14th century church of St. Michael in Heiningen, Germany

In the 12th-14th century church of St. Michael in Heiningen, Germany

On tour with genealogist Margaret Weiler in the Schwaebische Alb of Germany, we learned yesterday something very interesting from the former pastor of a very old church in the town of Heiningen. “Crucifixes were developed in Spain at the end of the 14th century to remind people of the hideous treatment of Jesus by the Jews,” said former Pastor Wagner. “Before then, the only depictions of Jesus found in churches was as the shepherd.” This really made an impact, as the only image seen in most churches is Jesus on the cross, in great pain, bloodied, torn. To know that this was a political statement carried around the world made one think.

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Categories : Family History

A Visit to Dettingen unter Teck, Germany

Thursday, May 16th, 2013

May 16

By Margie Weiler

The center of Dettingen unter Teck

The center of Dettingen unter Teck

This is my 4th tour with James Derheim, who has taken me to many ancestral villages, both mine and my husband Bill’s, in many south and western areas of Germany and the Zurich area of Switzerland.  I always have had a wonderful time seeing for myself where these ancestors lived and learning a lot about how they lived.  Usually I had been able to learn about their pedigrees using the LDS microfilmed church records before I visited the village, but this year the records for one village, Dettingen unter Teck, had been lost for some unspecified reason.  This trip was crucial to learning what happened to the records and to learning enough to be sure that this was the correct village and even to be sure of the location within the village.  Usually I can be sure only that they must have come to the church and sometimes  that they were baptized in the font that is still there in the church.

Before 1945

Before 1945

Bill’s grandfather emigrated from Schlierbach ,in Wurttemberg, in 1891, and his 3rd great grandmother Christiana Barbara Haubenestel married Leonard Weiler there in

1815; she was said to be the daughter of Johannes Haubenestel from either “Dettingen” or “Schlossberg” both of which were said to refer to Dettingen unter Teck which is a small village near Kirchheim unter Teck.  The LDS records only include very late records except for a familienbuch which gave some information about Christiana Barbara’s family including a birth date of her father Johannes of May, 1750 (the day was cut off in the image).

It took a visit to Dettingen u. Teck to find out that the records had been destroyed by Allied bombs in 1945, having been brought to the church for safekeeping because the Allies had said that they were not targeting churches!  But we did find in a map of the village that “Schlossberg” was a very tiny section of the village just across the Lauter River on the road up the hill (“berg”) to a long-destroyed castle (Schloss).  An old map in the Heimatbuch, (purchased next door to the church in the town hall) shows a tiny cluster of small houses just at the foot of this hill so I can be sure that Bill’s Haubensetel ancestors lived in one of those houses.

 

Margie Weiler and Frau Lauk, left, going over the old plan of the town

Margie Weiler and Frau Lauk, left, going over the old plan of the town

A view of Dettingen from the "Teck," a high hill to the east. The location of the ancestral area "Schlossberg" is indicated

A view of Dettingen from the “Teck,” a high hill to the east. The location of the ancestral area “Schlossberg” is indicated

This was one case where I really needed to visit the village and especially needed Jim’s help in talking to the people there, since my German is limited at best.

Germany’s Pick Your Own Flower Patches

Wednesday, May 15th, 2013

May 15

A field of tulips along the road near Owen, Germany

A field of tulips along the road near Owen, Germany

 

You see them everywhere in Germany, these bright fields of flowers full of seasonal blooms, there for the picking and usually conveniently located along a busy road and perfect for the person who wants to liven up their homecoming with some fresh flowers. The best thing is – the price is right. A bunch of flowers can be had for less than 5 Euro, and the patch owner even provides the cutting tools. A box is provided to drop your coins. As there are so many of these “Blumen Zum Selber Schneiden” lots around, it’s probably safe to say that the owners and caretakers are happy with the honesty of their customers.

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Categories : Germany Tours

May 12

Sketch of the village from the 1600s

Sketch of the village from the 1600s

View of the village taken in May, 2013

View of the village taken in May, 2013

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We are on the trail of ancestors with genealogist Margie Weiler in the area around Goeppingen, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany. One of the highlights of Sunday was a visit to the hilltop hamlet of Oberwaelden. The church there, St. Nikolaus (built pre-Reformation in the early 1400s) is brilliantly decorated with paintings in its ancient tower, which is even older than the rest of the church building. The tower, known in German as a “Wehrturm,” was used for observation and also as a last point of refuge for villagers who felt threatened during a time when every neighbor wanted what every other neighbor had. Built at a time of strife between descendants of the ruling Staufer dynasty, the church tower could be as old as the late 12th century. Documents show that the tower as seen today dates back to about 1284. The village called “superiori villa Waldiu” became “obere Dorf Waelden” as part of the extensive holdings of the nearby monastery at Adelberg, which through a trade between Kaiser Friedrich I Barbarossa and Herzog (Duke) Welf VI.

The painting on the choir window, left side

The painting on the choir window, left side

Precious paintings such as what survive in this church can thank their state of preservation to the Protestant Reformation and what followed. Hundreds of frescoes all around this area were whitewashed over, as the strict teachings of Martin Luther pointed out that the word, and not symbols, were the most important part of being devout. Thanks to being whitewashed, the paintings survived. Painstaking and modern restoration methods have brought these beauties back to life.

The paintings show scenes from the Bible plus representations of the Four Evangelists, Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. Painted deep within the niche on either side of the narrow choir window, facing east of course, is a vivid depiction of Christ being nailed to the cross. The entire area is lit by spotlights thoughtfully installed by the parish, which has its main office in a nearby village. A sign on the exterior of the church tells the visitor where to go to find a key. Of course, the ability to read German is vital, as all of the directions are in German.

The church ceiling, in the ancient tower

The church ceiling, in the ancient tower

The rest of the historic village has plenty of 300 and 400 year-old barns and houses plus a bonus – the village bake house, still in use, right next to the bus stop. It’s common in this area for village women to get together from time to time and bake the round loaves of “Bauernbrot,” (Farmer’s Bread) together on weekends. If one is lucky enough to pass through on one of those days, a hunk of this bread, still warm, with “schmaltz,” or lard with onions and apples is a delight that cannot be easily captured on a blog.

Village bake house at left and a view to the church of St. Nikolaus

Village bake house at left and a view to the church of St. Nikolaus

 

May 12

Margie Weiler makes her way to the castle ruins

Margie Weiler makes her way to the castle ruins

Margie Weiler is on a quest. She has more than 20 ancestral villages and churches she wants to visit in a space of eight days. Can it be done? Absolutely, with careful planning and with cooperation from Mother Nature, as the trip hinges around the photography of places where her husband’s ancestors lived before emigrating to North America.

One place we visited on Saturday, May 11 is the hilltop hamlet of Hohenstaufen. The seat of the Staufer Dynasty, the village hosts an ancient church built in the 1200s and the ruins of a castle, once majestic, now little more than a low-lying collection of ruins but with a magnificent view over the surrounding hills, valleys, rivers and hamlets. It’s a view once taken in by those who ruled over this part of present-day Baden-Wuerttemberg, and it is one enjoyed by bikers, hikers and of course, family historians today.

Hohenstaufen dynasty, also called Staufer dynasty,  German dynasty that ruled the Holy Roman Empire from 1138 to 1208 and from 1212 to 1254. The founder of the line was the count Frederick (died 1105), who built Staufen Castle in the Swabian Jura Mountains and was rewarded for his fidelity to Emperor Henry IV by being appointed duke of Swabia as Frederick I in 1079. He later married Henry’s daughter Agnes. His two sons, Frederick II, duke of Swabia, and Conrad, were the heirs of their uncle, Emperor Henry V, who died childless in 1125. After the interim reign of the Saxon Lothar III, Conrad became German king and Holy Roman emperor as Conrad III in 1138. Subsequent Hohenstaufen rulers were Frederick I Barbarossa (Holy Roman emperor 1155–90), Henry VI (Holy Roman emperor 1191–97), Philip of Swabia (king 1198– 1208), Frederick II (king, 1212–50, emperor 1220–50), and Conrad IV (king 1237–54). The Hohenstaufen, especially Frederick I and Frederick II, continued the struggle with the papacy that began under their Salian predecessors, and were active in Italian affairs.

Ruins of a once mighty fortress from the 12th century

Ruins of a once mighty fortress from the 12th century

 

 

 

 

 

 

St. Jakob, built about 1200

St. Jakob, built about 1200

Frederic I memorialized in stained glass in the ancient church

Frederic I memorialized in stained glass in the ancient church

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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